A Voyage in the Sunbeam | Page 8

several cottages, whose inhabitants stood airing
themselves on the threshold after the great heat of the day, and through
the open doorways we occasionally got a peep into the gardens beyond,
full of bright flowers and luxuriant with vines, fig-trees, and bananas.
As we sat in the terrace garden at Til we enjoyed the sweet scent of the
flowers we could no longer see, and listened to the cool splash of the
water in the fountain below; whilst Allnutt, with unceasing energy,

searched amongst the bushes for moths, of which he found a large
number.
We jogged down the hill a great deal faster than we had come up,
stopping only for a short time in the now more than ever crowded
'Praça,' to listen to one or two airs played by the Portuguese band,
before we got back to the yacht at about half-past ten.
Next morning we were off to the fish-market by seven o'clock, but it
was not a good time for our visit, as there had been no moon on the
previous night; and, though there were fish of various kinds, saw
nothing specially worthy of notice. The picturesque costumes of the
people were, however, interesting. We afterwards went to the
fruit-market, though it was not specially worth seeing, for most of the
fruit and vegetables are brought in boats from villages on the sea-shore;
and, as it is necessary to wait until the sea-breeze springs up, they do
not arrive until midday. After our walk the children and I went down to
the beach and bathed, taking care not to go too far out on account of the
sharks, of which we had been warned. We undressed and dressed in
tents, not unlike clothes-horses, with a bit of matting thrown over them,
in which the heat was intense. The beach is very steep; and as one gets
out of one's depth immediately, indifferent swimmers put on a couple
of bladders--which stick out behind their backs and produce a strange
effect--or else take a bathing-man into the water with them. I preferred
the latter course; and we all had a pleasant bathe.
[Illustration: Fish Carrier]
The natives seem almost amphibious in their habits, and the yacht is
surrounded all day by boats full of small boys, who will dive to any
depth for sixpence, a dozen of them spluttering and fighting for the
coin in the water at the same time. They will go down on one side of
the yacht too, and bob up on the other, almost before you have time to
run across the deck to witness their reappearance.
The Loo Rock, with its old fortress, close to our anchorage, forms a
picturesque object; and the scene from the yacht, enlivened by the
presence of numerous market-boats, laden with fruit and vegetables, is

very pretty. We lie about 150 yards from the shore, just under Mr.
Danero's quinta. The cliff just here is overhung with bougainvillæas,
geraniums, fuchsias, aloes, prickly pears, and other flowers, which
grow luxuriantly quite down to the water's edge, wherever they can
contrive to find a root-hold.
After five o'clock tea we rode up the Mount and through the woods on
horseback, along a road gay with masses of wild geranium, hydrangea,
amaryllis, and fuchsia. We dismounted at a lovely place, which
contains a large number of rare trees and plants, brought from all parts
of the world. Here were enormous camellias, as well as purple, red, and
white azaleas, Guernsey lilies, all growing in the greatest profusion.
Our descent of the Mount, by means of a form of conveyance
commonly used on the island, was very amusing. At the summit we
found basket-work sleighs, each constructed to hold two people, and
attended by a couple of men, lashed together. Into these we stepped,
and were immediately pushed down the hill at a tremendous pace. The
gliding motion is delightful, and was altogether a novelty to us. The
men manage the sleighs with great skill, steering them in the most
wonderful manner round the sharp angles in the zigzag road, and
making use of their bare feet as brakes when necessary. The turns were
occasionally so abrupt, that it seemed almost impossible that we could
avoid being upset; but we reached the bottom quite safely. The children
were especially delighted with the trip, and indeed we all enjoyed it
immensely. The only danger is the risk of fire from the friction of the
steel runners against the gravel road.
After paying a visit to Mr. and Mrs. Blandy, whose house is beautifully
situated, we dined at the hotel, and afterwards sat in the lovely
semi-tropical garden until it was time to go on board to bed.
Tuesday, July 18th.--We were called at 4.30 a.m., and went ashore soon
after six to