A Visit to the Holy Land, Egypt, and Italy | Page 2

such men might blush with shame on reading this journal of a simple, truth-loving woman.
After much trouble I succeeded in persuading the Authoress to allow her journal to appear in print.
My efforts were called forth by the desire to furnish the reading public, and particularly the female portion, with a very interesting and attractive, and at the same time a strictly authentic picture of the Holy Land, and of Madame Pfeiffer's entire journey.

CONTENTS
CHAPTER I.
Departure from Vienna--Scene on board the steamer-- Hainburg--Presburg--The "Coronation-mount"--Pesth--Ofen--The steamer Galata--Mohacs--The fortress Peterwardein--Discomfort and bad management on board the steamer--Semlin--Belgrade--Pancsova-- Austrian soldiers--The rock Babakay--Drenkova--Falls of Danube--Alt- Orsova--The "Iron Gate"--Cattle-breeding--Callafat--Vexatious delay
CHAPTER II.
Giurgewo--Interior of the town--Braila--Sanitary precautions--Galatz--Scarcity of good water--Ridiculous fear of the plague--The steamer Ferdinand--Entrance into the Black Sea--Stormy weather and sea-sickness--Arrival at Constantinople--Picturesque appearance of the city--Mosques--The dancing Dervishes--The Sultan and his barge--Pera--The great and little Campo--Wild dogs--Dirty state of the streets--Preparations in case of fire
CHAPTER III.
Scutari--Kaiks--The howling Dervishes--The Achmaidon, or place of arrows--The tower in Galata--The bazaar at Constantinople--Mosques--Slave-market--The old Serail--The Hippodrome--Coffee-houses--Story-tellers--Excursion to Ejub--Houses, theatres, and carriages
CHAPTER IV.
Walks and drives of the townspeople--The "Sweet Waters"--Chalcedonia--Baluklid--The great and little Campo--Feasts in Constantinople--Anniversary of Mahomet's death--Easter holydays of the Greeks--Gladiators and wrestlers--Excursion to Brussa--Olive- trees--Mosques at Brussa--Stone bridge--Wild dogs--Baths and mineral springs--Return to Constantinople
CHAPTER V.
Contradictory reports--Departure from Constantinople on board the Archduke John--Scene on the steamer--Galipoli--The Dardanelles--Tschenekalesi and Kilidil Bahar--The field of Troy-- Tenedos--Smyrna--Halizar--The date-palm--Burnaba--The Acropolis-- Female beauty--Rhodes--Strong fortifications--Deserted appearance of the town--Cyprus
CHAPTER VI.
Arrival at Beyrout--Fellahs--Backsheesh-- Uncomfortable quarters--Saida--Tyre--St. Jean d'Acre--Caesarea-- Excursion among the ruins--Jaffa--An Eastern family--The Indian fig- tree--An Oriental dinner--Costume of the women of Jaffa--Oppressive heat--Gnats--Ramla--Syrian convents--Bedouins and Arabs--Kariet el Areb, or Emmaus--The scheikh--Arrival at Jerusalem
CHAPTER VII.
Residence at Jerusalem--Catholic church--The "Nuova Casa"--Via dolorosa--Pilate's house--The Mosque Omar--Herod's house-- Church of the Holy Sepulchre--Disturbances at the Greek Easter feasts--Knights of the Holy Sepulchre--Mount of Olives--Adventure among the ruins--Mount of Offence--Valley of Jehosaphat--Siloam-- Mount Sion--Jeremiah's Grotto--Graves
CHAPTER VIII.
Bethlehem--Rachel's grave--Convent at Bethlehem-- Beggars--Grotto of the Nativity--Solomon's cisterns--St. John's-- Franciscan church at Jerusalem--Mourning women--Eastern weddings-- Mish-mish--Excursion to the Jordan and the Dead Sea--Wilderness near Jerusalem--Convent of St. Saba
CHAPTER IX.
Ride through the wilderness to the Dead Sea--The Dead Sea--The river Jordan--Horde of Bedouins--Arab horses--The Sultan's well--Bivouac in the open air--Return to Jerusalem-- Bethany--Departure from Jerusalem--Jacob's grave--Nablus or Sichem-- Sebasta--Costume of Samaritan woman--Plain of Esdralon--Sagun
CHAPTER X.
Arrival at Nazareth--Franciscan convent--Tabarith-- Mount Tabor--Lake of Gennesareth--Baths--Mount Carmel--Grotto of the prophet Elijah--Acre--The pacha's harem--Oriental women--Their listlessness and ignorance--Sur or Tyre
CHAPTER XI.
River Mishmir--Saida--Arnauts--Desert-path-- Residence of Lady Hester Stanhope--Beyrout--The consul's-- Uncomfortable quarters--Sickness--The Bazaar--Vexatious delays-- Departure from Beyrout--Beautiful views--Syrian costumes--Damascus-- Aspect of the city--House of the consul
CHAPTER XII.
The bazaar at Damascus--The khan--Grotto of St. Paul--Fanaticism of the inhabitants--Departure from Damascus--The desert--Military escort--Heliopolis or Balbeck--Stupendous ruins-- Continuation of our voyage through the desert--The plague--The Lebanon range--Cedar-trees--Druses and Maronites--Importunate beggars--Thievish propensities of the Arabs
CHAPTER XIII.
The Lebanon--Druses and Maronites--Illness of Herr Sattler--Djebel or Byblus--Rocky passes--Dog's-river--Return to Beyrout--Sickness--Departure for Alexandria--Roguery of the captain-- Disagreeables on board--Limasol--Alarm of pirates--Cowardice of the crew--Arrival at Alexandria
CHAPTER XIV.
Alexandria--Keeping quarantine--Want of arrangement in the quarantine-house--Bad water--Fumigating of the rooms-- Release--Aspect of the city--Departure by boat for Atfe--Mehemet Ali--Arrival at Atfe--Excellence of the Nile water--Good-nature of the Arab women--The Delta of the Nile--The Libyan desert--The pyramids--Arrival at Cairo
CHAPTER XV.
Cairo--Quarrel with the captain--Rapacity of the beggars--The custom-house--The consulate--Aspect of Cairo--Narrow and crowded streets--Costumes--The mad-house--Disgusting exhibition-- Joseph's well--Palace of Mehemet Ali--Dates--Mosques at Cairo-- Excursion to the pyramids of Gizeh--Gizeh--Eggs hatched by artificial heat--Ascent of the pyramids--The sphynx--Return to Cairo
CHAPTER XVI.
Christian churches at Cairo--The Esbekie-square-- Theatre--Howling dervishes--Mashdalansher, the birthday of Mahomet-- Procession and religious ceremony--Shubra--Excursion through the desert to Suez--Hardships of the journey--Scenes in the desert--The camel--Caravans--Mirage--The Red Sea--Suez--Bedouin Camp--Quarrel with the camel-driver--Departure for Alexandria
CHAPTER XVII.
Return to Alexandria--Egyptian burials--Catacombs of Alexandria--Viceroy's palace--Departure from Alexandria--The steamer Eurotas--Candia--Syra--Paros and Antiparos--The Morea--Fire on board--Malta--Quarantine--St. Augustine's church--Clergymen-- Beggars--Costumes--Soldiers--Civita Vecchia
CHAPTER XVIII.
The steamer Hercules--Syracuse--Neapolis--Ruins-- Catanea--Convent of St. Nicholas--Messina--The Duke of Calabria-- Palermo--The royal palace--Church of St. Theresa--St. Ignazio-- Catacombs of the Augustine convent--Skeletons--Olivuzza--Royal villa "Favorite"--St. Rosalia--Brutality of the Italian mob--Luxuriant vegetation--Arrival at Naples
CHAPTER XIX.
Sojourn at Naples--Sickness--Laziness of the people-- Royal palace--Rotunda--Strada Chiaga and Toledo--St. Carlo Theatre-- Largo del Castello--Medina Square--Marionettes--St. Jesu Nuovo--St. Jesu Maggiore--St. Maria di Piedigrotta--Public gardens--Academy "degli Studii"--Cathedral of St. Januarius--St. Jeronimi--St. Paula Maggiore--St. Chiara--Baths of Nero--Solfatara--Grotto "del Cane"-- Resina--Ascent of Vesuvius--Caserta
CHAPTER XX.
Caserta--Costume of the peasants--Rome--Piazza del Popolo--Dogana--St. Peter's--Palaces--Borghese, Barberini, Colonna, etc.--Churches--Ancient Rome--The Colliseum--Departure for Florence- Bad weather--Picturesque scenery--Siena--Florence--Cathedral and palaces--Departure from Florence--Bologna--Ferrara--Conclusion
LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS
1. JERUSALEM 2. NAZARETH 3. CHURCHYARD AT SCUTARI 4. THE DEAD SEA 5. MOUNT CARMEL 6. LEBANON 7. BALBECK 8. ISTHMUS OF SUEZ
CHAPTER I.
Departure from Vienna--Scene on board the steamer--Hainburg-- Presburg--The "Coronation-mount"--Pesth--Ofen--The steamer Galata-- Mohacs--The fortress Peterwardein--Discomfort and bad management on board the steamer--Semlin--Belgrade--Pancsova--Austrian soldiers-- The rock Babakay--Drenkova--Falls of the Danube--Alt-Orsova--The "Iron Gate"--Cattle-breeding--Callafat--Vexatious delay.
I had for years cherished the wish to undertake a journey to the Holy Land; years are, indeed, required to familiarise one with the idea of so hazardous an enterprise. When, therefore, my domestic arrangements at length admitted of my absence for