A Visit to the Holy Land, Egypt, and Italy | Page 3

from Vienna--Scene on board the steamer--Hainburg--
Presburg--The "Coronation-mount"--Pesth--Ofen--The steamer
Galata-- Mohacs--The fortress Peterwardein--Discomfort and bad
management on board the
steamer--Semlin--Belgrade--Pancsova--Austrian soldiers-- The rock
Babakay--Drenkova--Falls of the Danube--Alt-Orsova--The "Iron
Gate"--Cattle-breeding--Callafat--Vexatious delay.
I had for years cherished the wish to undertake a journey to the Holy
Land; years are, indeed, required to familiarise one with the idea of so
hazardous an enterprise. When, therefore, my domestic arrangements at
length admitted of my absence for at least a year, my chief employment
was to prepare myself for this journey. I read many works bearing on
the subject, and was moreover fortunate enough to make the
acquaintance of a gentleman who had travelled in the Holy Land some
years before. I was thus enabled to gain much oral information and
advice respecting the means of prosecuting my dangerous pilgrimage.

My friends and relations attempted in vain to turn me from my purpose
by painting, in the most glowing colours, all the dangers and
difficulties which await the traveller in those regions. "Men," they said,
"were obliged gravely to consider if they had physical strength to
endure the fatigues of such a journey, and strength of mind bravely to
face the dangers of the plague, the climate, the attacks of insects, bad
diet, etc. And to think of a woman's venturing alone, without protection
of any kind, into the wide world, across sea and mountain and plain,--it
was quite preposterous." This was the opinion of my friends.
I had nothing to advance in opposition to all this but my firm
unchanging determination. My trust in Providence gave me calmness
and strength to set my house in every respect in order. I made my will,
and arranged all my worldly affairs in such a manner that, in the case of
my death (an event which I considered more probable than my safe
return), my family should find every thing perfectly arranged.
And thus, on the 22d of March 1842, I commenced my journey from
Vienna.
At one o'clock in the afternoon I drove to the Kaisermuhlen (Emperor's
Mills), from which place the steamboats start for Pesth. I was joyfully
surprised by the presence of several of my relations and friends, who
wished to say farewell once more. The parting was certainly most bitter,
for the thought involuntarily obtruded itself, "Should we ever meet
again in this world?"
Our mournful meditations were in some degree disturbed by a loud
dispute on board the vessel. At the request of a gentleman present, one
of the passengers was compelled, instead of flying, as he had intended,
with bag and baggage to Hungary, to return to Vienna in company of
the police. It appeared he owed the gentleman 1300 florins, and had
wished to abscond, but was luckily overtaken before the departure of
the boat. This affair was hardly concluded when the bell rang, the
wheels began to revolve, and too soon, alas, my dear ones were out of
sight!
I had but few fellow-passengers. The weather was indeed fine and mild;

but the season was not far enough advanced to lure travellers into the
wide world, excepting men of business, and those who had
cosmopolitan ideas, like myself. Most of those on board were going
only to Presburg, or at farthest to Pesth. The captain having mentioned
that a woman was on board who intended travelling to Constantinople,
I was immediately surrounded by curious gazers. A gentleman who was
bound to the same port stepped forward, and offered his services in
case I should ever stand in need of them; he afterwards frequently took
me under his protection.
The fine mild weather changed to cold and wind as we got fairly out
into the great Danube. I wrapped myself in my cloak, and remained on
deck, in order to see the scenery between Vienna and Presburg, which,
no doubt, appears lovely enough when nature is clad in the garment of
spring; but now I only saw leafless trees and fallow ground--a dreary
picture of winter.
Hainburg with its old castle on a rock, Theben with its remarkable
fortress, and farther on the large free city of Presburg, have all a
striking appearance.
In three hours' time we reached Presburg, and landed in the
neighbourhood of the Coronation-hill, an artificial mound, on which
the king must stand in his royal robes, and brandish his sword towards
the four quarters of the heavens, as a token that he is ready to defend
his kingdom against all enemies, from whatever direction they may
approach. Not far from this hill is situate the handsome inn called the
"Two Green Trees," where the charges are as high, if not higher, than
in Vienna. Until we have passed Pesth, passengers going down the
river are not allowed to remain on board through the night.
March 23d.
This