A Visit to Iceland and the Scandinavian North | Page 2

travel thither.
As dangers and difficulties rose before my mind, I endeavoured to
wean myself from the idea I had formed--but in vain. For privation I
cared but little; my health was good and my frame hardy: I did not fear
death. And moreover, as I was born in the last century, I could travel
ALONE. Thus every objection was overcome; every thing had been
duly weighed and considered. I commenced my journey to Palestine
with a feeling of perfect rapture; and behold, I returned in safety. I now
feel persuaded that I am neither tempting Providence, nor justly
incurring the imputation of wishing to be talked about, in following the
bent of my inclinations, and looking still further about me in the world
I chose Iceland for my destination, because I hoped there to find Nature
in a garb such as she wears nowhere else. I feel so completely happy,
so brought into communion with my Maker, when I contemplate
sublime natural phenomena, that in my eyes no degree of toil or
difficulty is too great a price at which to purchase such perfect
enjoyment.
And should death overtake me sooner or later during my wanderings, I
shall await his approach in all resignation, and be deeply grateful to the
Almighty for the hours of holy beauty in which I have lived and gazed
upon His wonders.

And now, dear reader, I would beg thee not to be angry with me for
speaking so much of myself; it is only because this love of travelling
does not, according to established notions, seem proper for one of my
sex, that I have allowed my feelings to speak in my defence.
Judge me, therefore, not too harshly; but rather grant me the enjoyment
of a pleasure which hurts no one, while it makes me happy.
THE AUTHOR.
CHAPTER I
In the year 1845 I undertook another journey; {2} a journey, moreover,
to the far North. Iceland was one of those regions towards which, from
the earliest period of my consciousness, I had felt myself impelled. In
this country, stamped as it is by Nature with features so peculiar, as
probably to have no counterpart on the face of the globe, I hoped to see
things which should fill me with new and inexpressible astonishment.
How deeply grateful do I feel to Thee, O Thou that hast vouchsafed to
me to behold the fulfilment of these my cherished dreams!
The parting from all my dear ones had this time far less bitterness; I
had found by experience, that a woman of an energetic mind can find
her way through the world as well as a man, and that good people are to
be met with every where. To this was added the reflection, that the
hardships of my present voyage would be of short duration, and that
five or six months might see me restored to my family.
I left Vienna at five o'clock on the morning of the tenth of April. As the
Danube had lately caused some devastations, on which occasion the
railroad had not entirely escaped, we rode for the first four miles, as far
as Florisdorf, in an omnibus--not the most agreeable mode of travelling.
Our omnibuses are so small and narrow, that one would suppose they
were built for the exclusive accommodation of consumptive subjects,
and not for healthy, and in some cases portly individuals, whose bulk is
further increased by a goodly assemblage of cloaks, furs, and overcoats.
At the barriers a new difficulty arose. We delivered up our

pass-warrants (passirscheine) in turn, with the exception of one young
man, who was quite astounded at the demand. He had provided nothing
but his passport and testimonials, being totally unaware that a
pass-warrant is more indispensable than all the rest. In vain did he
hasten into the bureau to expostulate with the officials,--we were forced
to continue our journey without him.
We were informed that he was a student, who, at the conclusion of term,
was about to make holiday for a few weeks at his parents' house near
Prague. Alas, poor youth! he had studied so much, and yet knew so
little. He had not even an idea of the overwhelming importance of the
document in question. For this trifling omission he forfeited the fare to
Prague, which had been paid in advance.
But to proceed with my journey.
At Florisdorf a joyful surprise awaited me. I met my brother and my
son, who had, it appears, preceded me. We entered the train to proceed
in company to Stockerau, a place between twelve and thirteen miles off;
but were obliged to alight halfway, and walk a short distance. The
Embankment had given way. Luckily the weather was favourable,
inasmuch as we had only a violent storm of wind.