A Tour in Ireland | Page 3

the
ceiling, and has an exceeding good effect; at one end is a pretty
ante-room, with a fine copy of the Venus de Medicis, and at the other
two small rooms, one a cabinet of pictures and antiquities, the other
medals. In the collection also of Robert Fitzgerald, Esq., in Merion
Square, are several pieces which very well deserve a traveller's
attention; it was the best I saw in Dublin. Before I quit that city I
observe, on the houses in general, that what they call their two-roomed
ones are good and convenient. Mr. Latouche's, in Stephen's Green, I
was shown as a model of this sort, and I found it well contrived, and
finished elegantly. Drove to Lord Charlemont's villa at Marino, near the
city, where his lordship has formed a pleasing lawn, margined in the
higher part by a well-planted thriving shrubbery, and on a rising ground
a banqueting-room, which ranks very high among the most beautiful
edifices I have anywhere seen; it has much elegance, lightness, and
effect, and commands a fine prospect. The rising ground on which it
stands slopes off to an agreeable accompaniment of wood, beyond
which on one side is Dublin Harbour, which here has the appearance of
a noble river crowded with ships moving to and from the capital. On
the other side is a shore spotted with white buildings, and beyond it the
hills of Wicklow, presenting an outline extremely various. The other
part of the view (it would be more perfect if the city was planted out) is
varied, in some places nothing but wood, in others breaks of prospect.
The lawn, which is extensive, is new grass, and appears to be
excellently laid down, the herbage a fine crop of white clover (trifolium
repens), trefoil, rib-grass (plantago lanceolata), and other good plants.
Returned to Dublin, and made inquiries into other points, the prices of
provisions, etc. The expenses of a family in proportion to those of
London are, as five to eight.

Having the year following lived more than two months in Dublin, I am
able to speak to a few points, which as a mere traveller I could not have
done. The information I before received of the prices of living is correct.
Fish and poultry are plentiful and very cheap. Good lodgings almost as
dear as they are in London; though we were well accommodated (dirt
excepted) for two guineas and a-half a week. All the lower ranks in this
city have no idea of English cleanliness, either in apartments, persons,
or cookery. There is a very good society in Dublin in a Parliament
winter: a great round of dinners and parties; and balls and suppers
every night in the week, some of which are very elegant; but you
almost everywhere meet a company much too numerous for the size of
the apartments. They have two assemblies on the plan of those of
London, in Fishamble Street, and at the Rotunda; and two gentlemen's
clubs, Anthry's and Daly's, very well regulated: I heard some anecdotes
of deep play at the latter, though never to the excess common at
London. An ill-judged and unsuccessful attempt was made to establish
the Italian Opera, which existed but with scarcely any life for this one
winter; of course they could rise no higher than a comic one. La Buona
Figliuola, La Frascatana, and Il Geloso in Cimento, were repeatedly
performed, or rather murdered, except the parts of Sestini. The house
was generally empty, and miserably cold. So much knowledge of the
state of a country is gained by hearing the debates of a Parliament, that
I often frequented the gallery of the House of Commons. Since Mr.
Flood has been silenced with the Vice-Treasurership of Ireland, Mr.
Daly, Mr. Grattan, Sir William Osborn, and the prime serjeant Burgh,
are reckoned high among the Irish orators. I heard many very eloquent
speeches, but I cannot say they struck me like the exertion of the
abilities of Irishmen in the English House of Commons, owing perhaps
to the reflection both on the speaker and auditor, that the
Attorney-General of England, with a dash of his pen, can reverse, alter,
or entirely do away the matured result of all the eloquence, and all the
abilities of this whole assembly. Before I conclude with Dublin I shall
only remark, that walking in the streets there, from the narrowness and
populousness of the principal thoroughfares, as well as from the dirt
and wretchedness of the canaille, is a most uneasy and disgusting
exercise.

June 24. Left Dublin, and passed through the Phoenix Park, a very
pleasing ground, at the bottom of which, to the left, the Liffey forms a
variety of landscapes: this is the most beautiful environ of Dublin. Take
the road to Luttrel's Town, through a