A Study of the Textile Art in its Relation to the Development of Form and Ornament | Page 8

resultant surface character, but the
elaboration is in all cases along lines peculiar to these types of
weaving.
Other types of combination of web and woof, all tapestry, and all
braiding, netting, knitting, crochet, and needle work exhibit characters
peculiar to themselves, developing distinct groups of relieved results;
yet all are analogous in principle to those already illustrated and unite
in carrying forward the same great geometric system of combination.
Reticulated work.--A few paragraphs may be added here in regard to
reticulated fabrics of all classes of combination, as they exhibit more
than usually interesting relievo phenomena and have a decided bearing

upon the growth of ornament.
In all the primitive weaving with which we are acquainted definite
reticulated patterns are produced by variations in the spacings and other
relations of the warp and woof; and the same is true in all the higher
forms of the art. The production of reticulated work is the especial
function of netting, knitting, crocheting, and certain varieties of
needlework, and a great diversity of relieved results are produced, no
figure being too complex and no form too pronounced to be undertaken
by ambitious workmen.
In the following figures we have illustrations of the peculiar class of
primitive experiments that, after the lapse of ages, lead up to marvelous
results, the highest of which may be found in the exquisite laces of
cultured peoples. The Americans had only taken the first steps in this
peculiar art, but the results are on this account of especial interest in the
history of the art.
An example of simple reticulated hand weaving is shown in Fig. 308. It
is the work of the mound builders and is taken from an impression
upon an ancient piece of pottery obtained in Tennessee.
[Illustration: FIG. 308. Incipient stage of reticulated ornament. Fabric
of the mound builders.]
Fig. 309 illustrates a bit of ancient Peruvian work executed on a frame
or in a rude loom, a checker pattern being produced by arranging the
warp and woof now close together and now wide apart.
Open work of this class is sometimes completed by after processes,
certain threads or filaments being drawn out or introduced, by which
means the figures are emphasized and varied.
In Fig. 310 we have a second Peruvian example in which the woof
threads have been omitted for the space of an inch, and across this
interval the loose warp has been plaited and drawn together, producing
a lattice-like band.

[Illustration: FIG. 309. Simple form of ornamental reticulation. Ancient
Peruvian work.]
[Illustration: FIG. 310. Reticulated pattern in cotton cloth. Work of the
ancient Peruvians.]
In a similar way four other bands of narrow open work are introduced,
two above and two below the wide band. These are produced by
leaving the warp threads free for a short space and drawing alternate
pairs across each other and fixing them so by means of a woof thread,
as shown in the cut.
Examples of netting in which decorative features have been worked are
found among the textile products of many American tribes and occur as
well in several groups of ancient fabrics, but in most cases where
designs of importance or complexity are desired parts are introduced to
facilitate the work.
Superconstructive features.--These features, so important in the
decoration of fabrics, are the result of devices by which a construction
already capable of fulfilling the duties imposed by function has added
to it parts intended to enhance beauty and which may or may not be of
advantage to the fabric. They constitute one of the most widely used
and effective resources of the textile decorator, and are added by
sewing or stitching, inserting, drawing, cutting, applying, appending,
&c. They add enormously to the capacity for producing relievo effects
and make it possible even to render natural forms in the round.
Notwithstanding this fact--the most important section of this class of
features--embroidery is treated to better advantage under color
phenomena, as color is very generally associated with the designs.
[Illustration: FIG. 311. Open work design embroidered upon a net-like
fabric. From a grave at Ancon, Peru.]
One example of lace-like embroidery may be given in this place. It is
probably among the best examples of monochrome embroidery
America has produced. In design and in method of realization it is
identical with the rich, colored embroideries of the ancient Peruvians,

being worked upon a net foundation, as shown in Fig. 311. The broad
band of figures employs bird forms in connection with running
geometric designs, and still more highly conventional bird forms are
seen in the narrow band.
Appended ornaments are not amenable to the geometric laws of
fabrication to the extent observed in other classes of ornament. They
are, however, attached in ways consistent with the textile system, and
are counted and spaced with great