A Study of the Textile Art in its Relation to the Development of Form and Ornament

A Study Of The Textile Art In Its
Relation To The Development Of
Form And Ornament

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Relation
To The Development Of Form And Ornament, by William H. Holmes
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Title: A Study Of The Textile Art In Its Relation To The Development
Of Form And Ornament Sixth Annual Report of the Bureau of
Ethnology to the Secretary of the Smithsonian Institution, 1884-'85,
Government Printing Office, Washington, 1888, (pages 189-252)
Author: William H. Holmes
Release Date: February 9, 2006 [EBook #17730]
Language: English
Character set encoding: ISO-8859-1
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* * * * *

A STUDY OF THE TEXTILE ART IN ITS RELATION TO THE
DEVELOPMENT OF FORM AND ORNAMENT
BY
WILLIAM H. HOLMES.

Sixth Annual Report of the Bureau of Ethnology to the Secretary of the
Smithsonian Institution, 1884-'85, Government Printing Office,
Washington, 1888, pages 189-252
* * * * *

CONTENTS.
Page Introduction. 195 Form in textile art. 196 Relations of form to
ornament. 201 Color in textile art. 201
Textile ornament. 202 Development of a geometric system within the
art. 202 Introduction. 202 Relief phenomena. 203 Ordinary features.
203 Reticulated work. 210 Superconstructive features. 211 Color
phenomena. 215 Ordinary features. 215 Non-essential constructive
features. 226 Superconstructive features. 228 Adventitious features.
231 Geometricity imposed upon adopted elements. 232 Extension of
textile ornament to other forms of art. 244

ILLUSTRATIONS.
FIG. Page. 286. Mat or tray with esthetic attributes of form 197 287.
Tray having decided esthetic attributes of form 198 288. Pyriform
water vessel 198 289. Basket with esthetic characters of form 199 290.
Basket of eccentric form 200 291. Character of surface in the simplest
form of weaving 204 292. Surface produced by impacting 204 293.
Surface produced by use of wide fillets 204 294. Basket with ribbed
surface 205 295. Bottle showing obliquely ribbed surface 205 296.
Tray showing radial ribs 205 297. Combination giving herring bone
effect 206 298. Combination giving triangular figures 206 299.
Peruvian work basket 206 300. Basket of Seminole workmanship 207
301. Surface effect produced in open twined combination 207 302.
Surface effect produced in open twined combination 207 303. Surface
effect produced by impacting in twined combination 208 304. Surface
effect produced by impacting the web strands in twined combination
208 305. Surface effect produced by crossing the web series in open
twined work 208 306. Tray with open mesh, twined combination 208
307. Conical basket, twined combination 209 308. Example of
primitive reticulated weaving 210 309. Simple form of reticulation 211
310. Reticulated pattern in cotton cloth 211 311. Peruvian embroidery
213 312. Basket with pendent ornaments 213 313. Basket with pendent
ornaments 213 314. Tasseled Peruvian mantle 214 315. Pattern
produced by interlacing strands of different colors 216 316. Pattern
produced by interlacing strands of different colors 216 317. Pattern
produced by interlacing strands of different colors 216 318. Pattern
produced by interlacing strands of different colors 217 319. Base of
coiled basket 218 320. Coiled basket with geometric ornament 218 321.
Coiled basket with geometric ornament 219 322. Coiled basket with
geometric ornament 220 323. Coiled basket with geometric ornament
220 324. Coiled basket with geometric ornament 221 325. Coiled
basket with geometric ornament 223 326. Coiled tray with geometric
ornament 224 327. Coiled tray with geometric ornament 225 328. Tray
with geometric ornament 225 329. Tray with geometric ornament 226
330. Ornament produced by wrapping the strands 227 331. Ornament
produced by fixing strands to the surface of the fabric 227 332. Basket

with feather ornamentation 227 333. Basket with feather ornamentation
227 334. Piece of cloth showing use of supplementary warp and woof
228 335. Piece of cloth showing use of supplementary warp and woof
228 336. Example of grass embroidery 230 337. Example of feather
embroidery 231 338. Figures from the Penn wampum belt 233 339.
Figures from a California Indian basket 234 340. California Indian
basket 234 341. Figures from a Peruvian basket 235 342. Figure from a
piece of Peruvian gobelins 236 343. Figures from a Peruvian vase 237
344. Figure from a circular basket 238 345. Figure of a bird from a
Zuñi shield 239 346. Figure of a bird woven in a tray 240 347.