island after his prize, and
he got it this time and brought it safely to New York, where it now
reposes in the "American Museum of Natural History." As usual I was
a member of the party, and my back still aches when I think of the hard
work I did to help load that monster aboard the Hope.
It was during this voyage that Commander Peary announced his
determination to discover the North Pole, and the following years (from
1898 to 1902) were spent in the Arctic.
In 1900, the American record of Farthest North, held by Lockwood and
Brainard, was equaled and exceeded; their cairn visited and their
records removed. On April 21, 1902, a new American record of 84° 17'
was made by Commander Peary, further progress north being frustrated
by a lack of provisions and by a lane of open water, more than a mile
wide. This lead or lane of open water I have since become more
familiarly acquainted with. We have called it many names, but it is
popularly known as the "Big Lead." Going north, meeting it can be
depended upon. It is situated just a few miles north of the 84th parallel,
and is believed to mark the continental shelf of the land masses in the
Northern Hemisphere.
During the four years from 1898 to 1902, which were continuously
spent in the regions about North Greenland, we had every experience,
except death, that had ever fallen to the lot of the explorers who had
preceded us, and more than once we looked death squarely in the face.
Besides, we had many experiences that earlier explorers did not meet.
In January, 1899, Commander Peary froze his feet so badly that all but
one of his toes fell off.
After the return home, in 1902, it was three years before Commander
Peary made another attack on the Pole, but during those years he was
not resting.
He was preparing to launch his final and "sincerely to be hoped"
successful expedition, and in July, 1905, in the newly built ship,
Roosevelt, we were again "Poleward-bound." The following September,
the Roosevelt reached Cape Sheridan, latitude 82° 27' north, under her
own steam, a record unequaled by any other vessel, sail or steam.
Early the next year, the negotiation of the Arctic Ocean was
commenced, not as oceans usually are negotiated, but as this ocean
must be, by men, sledges, and dogs. The field party consisted of
twenty-six men, twenty sledges, and one hundred and thirty dogs.
That was an open winter and an early spring, very desirable conditions
in some parts of the world, but very undesirable to us on the northern
coast of Greenland. The ice-pack began disintegrating much too early
that year to suit, but we pushed on, and had it not been for furious
storms enforcing delays and losses of many precious days, the Pole
would have been reached. As it was, Commander Peary and his party
got to 87° 6' north, thereby breaking all records, and in spite of
incredible hardships, hunger and cold, returned safely with all of the
expedition, and on Christmas Eve the Roosevelt, after a most trying
voyage, entered New York harbor, somewhat battered but still
seaworthy.
Despite the fact that it was to be his last attempt, Commander Peary no
sooner reached home than he announced his intention to return, this
time to be the last, and this time to win.
However, a year intervened, and it was not until July 6, 1908, with the
God-Speed and good wishes of President Roosevelt, that the good ship
named in his honor set sail again. The narrative of that voyage, and the
story of the discovery of the North Pole, follow.
The ages of the wild, misgiving mystery of the North Pole are over,
to-day, and forever it stands under the folds of Old Glory.
CHAPTER II
OFF FOR THE POLE--HOW THE OTHER EXPLORERS
LOOKED--THE LAMB-LIKE ESQUIMOS--ARRIVAL AT ETAH
July 6, 1908: We're off! For a year and a half I have waited for this
order, and now we have cast off. The shouting and the tumult ceases,
the din of whistles, bells, and throats dies out, and once again the long,
slow surge of the ocean hits the good ship that we have embarked in. It
was at one-thirty P. M. to-day that I saw the last hawse-line cast adrift,
and felt the throb of the engines of our own ship. Chief Wardwell is on
the job, and from now on it is due north.
Oyster Bay, Long Island Sound: We are expecting President Roosevelt.
The ship has been named in his honor and has already made one
voyage towards the North Pole, farther north than any ship has ever
made.
July 7: At anchor, the soft wooded hills of Long
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