A Ladys Visit to the Gold Diggings of Australia in 1852-53 | Page 7

charges these
watermen levy.
Exorbitant they truly are. Not a boat would they put off for the nearest
ship in the bay for less than a pound, and before I quitted those regions,
two and three times that sum was often demanded for only one
passenger. We had just paid at the rate of only three shillings and
sixpence each, but this trifling charge was in consideration of the large
party--more than a dozen--who had left our ship in the same boat
together.
Meanwhile we have entered Liardet's EN ATTENDANT the
Melbourne omnibus, some of our number, too impatient to wait longer,
had already started on foot. We were shown into a clean, well-furnished
sitting-room, with mahogany dining-table and chairs, and a showy
glass over the mantelpicce. An English-looking barmaid entered.
"Would the company like some wine or spirits?" Some one ordered
sherry, of which I only remember that it was vile trash at eight shillings
a bottle.
And now the cry of "Here's the bus," brought us quickly outside again,
where we found several new arrivals also waiting for it. I had hoped,
from the name, or rather misname, of the conveyance, to gladden my
eyes with the sight of something civilized. Alas, for my disappointment!
There stood a long, tumble-to-pieces-looking waggon, not covered in,
with a plank down each side to sit upon, and a miserable narrow plank
it was. Into this vehicle were crammed a dozen people and an
innumerable host of portmanteaus, large and small, carpet-bags, baskets,
brown-paper parcels, bird-cage and inmate, &c., all of which, as is
generally the case, were packed in a manner the most calculated to
contribute the largest amount of inconvenience to the live portion of the
cargo. And to drag this grand affair into Melbourne were harnessed
thereto the most wretched-looking objects in the shape of horses that I
had ever beheld.
A slight roll tells us we are off.
"And is THIS the beautiful scenery of Australia?" was my first
melancholy reflection. Mud and swamp--swamp and mud--relieved

here and there by some few trees which looked as starved and
miserable as ourselves. The cattle we passed appeared in a wretched
condition, and the human beings on the road seemed all to belong to
one family, so truly Vandemonian was the cast of their countenances.
"The rainy season's not over," observed the driver, in an apologetic tone.
Our eyes and uneasy limbs most FEELINGLY corroborated his
statement, for as we moved along at a foot-pace, the rolling of the
omnibus, owing to the deep ruts and heavy soil, brought us into most
unpleasant contact with the various packages before-mentioned. On we
went towards Melbourne--now stopping for the unhappy horses to take
breath--then passing our pedestrian messmates, and now arriving at a
small specimen of a swamp; and whilst they (with trowsers tucked high
above the knee and boots well saturated) step, slide and tumble
manfully through it, we give a fearful roll to the left, ditto, ditto to the
right, then a regular stand-still, or perhaps, by way of variety, are all but
jolted over the animals' heads, till at length all minor considerations of
bumps and bruises are merged in the anxiety to escape without broken
bones.
"The Yarra," said the conductor. I looked straight ahead, and innocently
asked "Where?" for I could only discover a tract of marsh or swamp,
which I fancy must have resembled the fens of Lincolnshire, as they
were some years ago, before draining was introduced into that county.
Over Princes Bridge we now passed, up Swanston Street, then into
Great Bourke Street, and now we stand opposite the Post-office--the
appointed rendezvous with the walkers, who are there awaiting us.
Splashed, wet and tired, and also, I must confess, very cross, right
thankful was I to be carried over the dirty road and be safely deposited
beneath the wooden portico outside the Post-office. Our ride to
Melbourne cost us only half-a-crown a piece, and a shilling for every
parcel. The distance we had come was between two and three miles.
The non-arrival of the mail-steamer left us now no other care save the
all-important one of procuring food and shelter. Scouts were
accordingly despatched to the best hotels; they returned with long
faces--"full." The second-rate, and in fact every respectable inn and
boarding or lodging-house were tried but with no better success. Here
and there a solitary bed could be obtained, but for our digging party
entire, which consisted of my brother, four shipmates, and myself, no

accommodation could be procured, and we wished, if possible, to keep
together. "It's a case," ejaculated one, casting his eyes to the slight roof
above us as if calculating what sort of night shelter it would afford. At
this moment the two last searchers approached, their countenances not
quite