A Journey to Katmandu | Page 9

at Delhi,
which has been recently translated by Mr. Prinsep. In the main gateway
were some porcelain slabs which had at one time formed part of a Jain
temple.
The Itala musjid, to which we next bent our steps, has been built on the
site of one of these temples; its cloisters remain untouched, and the
figures on almost every slab bear undoubted testimony to the previous
existence of a Jain temple on this spot. The large square rooms, which
were filled during our visit with true believers, were curiously roofed; a
dome was ingeniously thrown over the square. An octagon, placed on
solid buttresses, supported a 16-sided figure, which in its turn
supported the dome. The Jumma musjid, which we also visited, was
remarkable for its magnificent screen, 120 feet in height by 70 in
breadth, and covered with curious inscriptions and fantastic devices;
the top is slightly narrower than the base, tapering in depth as well as in
breadth.
The population of Jaunpore is about 35,000; there is a small European
station near the town. In the course of the evening's drive I saw a
specimen of the Addansonia or baobab-tree: the trunk, measuring 23
feet in circumference, was perfectly smooth and the branches were
destitute of leaves. There are but five other specimens in India, and not
many in Java, where the tree was discovered by Mr. Addanson; it is
said to have attained, in some instances, the enormous age of 2000
years.
Leaving Jaunpore about midnight, I reached the camp of Jung

Bahadoor on the following day. The scene as we approached was in the
highest degree picturesque; 5000 Nepaulese were here collected,
followers, in various capacities, of the Prime Minister, whose tents
were pitched at a little distance from the grove of mango-trees which
sheltered his army and retainers. On our arrival he was out shooting, so,
mounting an elephant, we proceeded to join him. We heard such
frequent reports of fire-arms that we fully expected to find excellent
sport; great was my disappointment, therefore, when I saw him
surrounded by some 20 or 30 followers, who held umbrellas, loaded his
guns, rushed to pick up the game, or looked on applaudingly while he
stealthily crept up to take a deliberate pot shot at some unlucky parrot
or small bird that might catch his eye as it perched on a branch, or
fluttered unconsciously amongst the leaves. But the most interesting
object in the group was the lately-wedded bride, who was seated in a
howdah. Jung introduced her to me as "his beautiful Missis"--a
description she fully deserved. She was very handsome, and reflected
much credit on the taste of the happy bridegroom, who seemed pleased
when we expressed our approval of his choice.
Before quitting the subject of Jung's shooting-party, I must remark, in
justice to him as a sportsman, that he considers nothing less than a deer
to be game at all. Tiger or rhinoceros shooting is his favourite sport,
and he looks upon shooting a parrot, a snipe, a hawk, or a partridge as
being equally unworthy of the name of sport, nor does he understand
why some of those birds should be dignified with the name of "game,"
and the others not.
At dawn on the following morning the stir and bustle in camp
announced an early start, and our elephant appeared at the tent door just
as the gallant rifle corps marched past, the band playing the "British
Grenadiers." Mounting the elephant, we picked our way through the
debris of the camp, now almost deserted; some few of the coolies were
still engaged packing the conical baskets which they carry on their
backs, one strap passing over the forehead, and two others over the
shoulders. The appearance of a hill coolie as he thus staggers along
under his tremendous burden is singular enough, and so totally unlike
that of the coolies of the plains, that it was a sort of promise of there

being in store for us more curiosities, both of Nepaulese men and
manners, in their native country, and we looked with no little interest
upon the first specimens we had seen of the Newar race--the aborigines
of Nepaul. Short and compact, the full development of their muscle
bore evidence to their almost Herculean strength. Their flat noses, high
cheek-bones, small eyes, and copper-coloured complexion are
unequivocal signs of a Mongolian origin, whilst the calves of their legs,
which I never saw equalled in size, indicate the mountainous character
of their country.
Threading our way on our wary elephant through nearly 5000 of these
singular-looking beings, all heavily loaded with the appurtenances of
the camp, we soon overtook the cortege of the Minister and his brothers,
which consisted of three or four carriages dragged along by coolies,
over a road