A Holiday in the Happy Valley with Pen and Pencil | Page 4

full liberty to please himself.
A pair of strong shooting-boots, with plenty of spare laces and, say, a
hundred aluminium nails, is a _sine quâ non_. A pair of rubbers, or
what are known as "gouties" in Swiss winter circles, are not to be
despised. Otherwise, boots, shoes, slippers, and pumps, according to

taste.
30. A large "regulation" waterproof, a rain-coat or Burberry, and a
warm greatcoat will all be required.
It is hard to give definite advice to a lady as to the details of her outfit.
Let her conform in a general way to the instructions given above,
always remembering that both Srinagar and Gulmarg are gay and
festive places, where she will dine and dance, and have ample
opportunity for displaying a well-chosen wardrobe.
Let her also take heed that she leaves the family diamonds at home.
The gentle Kashmiri is an inveterate and skilful thief, and the less
jewellery she can make up her mind to "do with," the more at ease will
her mind be. But if she must needs copy the lady of whom we read, that
"Rich and rare were the gems she wore,"
then why not line the jewel-case--or rather the secret bag, which she
will sew into some mysterious garment--with the diamonds of Gophir
and the pearls of Rome?
If the intending visitor to Kashmir be a sportsman who has already had
experience in big-game shooting, he will not need any advice from me
(which, indeed, he would utterly disdain) as to the lethal weapons
which should form his battery; but if the wayfarer be a humble
performer who has never slain anything more formidable than a wary
old stag, or more nerve-shattering than a meteoric cock pheasant rising
clamorously from behind a turnip, he may not be too proud to learn that
he will find an ordinary "fowling piece" the most useful weapon which
he can take with him. If his gun is not choked, he should be provided
with a dozen or more ball cartridge for bear.
If the pursuit of markhor and ibex is contemplated, a small-bore rifle
will be required, but a heavy express is wanted to stop a bear. I had a
"Mannlicher" and an ordinary shot-gun, with a few ball cartridges for
the latter.

Duty has to be paid on taking firearms into India, and this may be
refunded on leaving the country. This is not always done, however, as I
found to my cost, my application for a refund being refused on the
quibble that my guns were taken back to England by a friend, although
I was able to prove their identity.
It is not necessary to take a large number of rifle cartridges out, as it is
exceedingly unlikely that the tyro will be able to shoot all the beasts
allowed him by his game licence.[1] Smooth-bore cartridges of fair
quality can be bought in Srinagar, and I certainly do not consider it
worth the trouble and expense to convey them out from England.
To the amateur artist I would say: Be well supplied with brushes and
paper--the latter sealed in tin for passage through the Red Sea and India.
Colours, and indeed all materials can he got from Treacher & Co.,
Bombay, and also from the branch of the Army and Navy Stores there.
Paper is, however, difficult to get in good condition, being frequently
spoilt by mildew.
It is almost impossible to get anything satisfactory in the way of
painting materials in Kashmir itself; therefore I say: Be well supplied
before leaving home.
Finally, a small stock of medicines should certainly be taken, not
omitting a copious supply of quinine (best in powder form for this
purpose), and also of strong peppermint or something of the sort, to
give to the native servants and others who are always falling sick of a
fever or complaining of an internal pain, which is generally quite cured
by a dose of peppermint.
Neither Jane nor I love guide-books; we found however, in Kashmir,
the little book written by Dr. Neve an invaluable companion;[2] while
Murray's Guide to India afforded much useful information when
wandering in that country.
The best book on Kashmir that I know is Sir Walter Lawrence's Valley
of Kashmir.

Any one going out as we did, absolutely ignorant of the language,
should certainly take an elementary phrase-book or something of the
sort to study on the voyage. We forgot to do this, and had infinite
trouble afterwards in getting what we wanted, and lost much time in
acquiring the rudimentary knowledge of Hindustani which enabled us
to worry along with our native servants, &c. No mere "globe-trotter"
need attempt to learn any Kashmiri, as Hindustani is "understanded of
the people" as a rule, and the tradesmen in Srinagar know quite as
much English