A Holiday in the Happy Valley with Pen and Pencil | Page 2

days only varied by frequent
thunderstorms--which, however, are almost invariable in keeping their
pyrotechnics till about five in the afternoon. July and August are hot
and steamy in the valley, and it is necessary to seek one of the cool
"Margs" which form ideal camping-grounds on all the lofty mountain
slopes which surround the valley.
Gulmarg is the most frequented and amusing resort in summer of the
English colony and contingent from the broiling plains of the Punjab.
Here the happy fugitive from the sweltering heat of the lower regions
will find a climate as glorious as the scenery. He can enjoy the best of
polo and golf, and, if he be not a misogynist, he will vary the 'daily
round' with picnics and scrambles on foot or on horseback, in exploring
the endless beauty of the place, coming home to his hut or tent as the
sun sinks behind the great pines that screen the Rampur Road, to wind
up the happy day with a cheery dinner and game of bridge. But if
Gulmarg does not appeal to him, let him go with his camping outfit to

Sonamarg or Pahlgam--he will find neither polo nor golf nor the gay
little society of Gulmarg, but he will find equally charming scenery and,
perhaps, a drier climate--for it must in fairness be admitted that
Gulmarg is a rainy place. Likewise his pocket will benefit, as his
expenses will surely be less, and he will still find neighbours dotted
about in white tents under the pine trees.
Towards the middle of September the exodus from the high 'Margs'
takes place--many returning sadly to Pindi and Sealkote--others merely
to Srinagar, while those who yearn after Bara Singh and Bear, decamp
quietly for their selected nullahs, to be in readiness for the opening of
the autumn season.
Thus, from April to October, a more or less perfect climate may be
obtained by watching the mercury in the thermometer, and rising or
descending the mountain slopes in direct ratio with it.
It is quite unnecessary to take out a large and expensive wardrobe. Thin
garments for the Red Sea and Indian Ocean, such as one wears in a fine
English summer, and for Kashmir the same sort of things that one
would take up to Scotland. For men--knickerbockers and flannel
shirts--and for ladies, short tweed skirts and some flannel blouses. The
native tailors in Srinagar are clever and cheap, and will copy an English
shooting suit in fairly good material for about eleven rupees, or 14s. 8d.!
One pair of strong shooting boots (plentifully studded with aluminium
nails) is enough. For all mountain work, the invaluable but
uncomfortable grass shoes must be worn, and both my wife and I
invariably wore the native chaplies for ordinary marching. Foot-gear
for golf, tennis, and general service at Srinagar and Gulmarg must be
laid in, according to the traveller's fancy, in England.
Underwear to suit both hot and cold weather should be purchased at
home--not on any account omitting cholera belts.
Shirts and collars should be taken freely, as it is well to remember that
the native washerman--the well-abused "Dobie"--has a marvellous skill
in producing a saw-like rim to the starched collar and cuff of the newest
shirt; while the elegant and delicate lace and embroidery, with which

the fair are wont to embellish their underwear, take strange and
unforeseen patterns at the hands of the skilled workmen. It is surprising
what an effect can be obtained by tying up the neck and sleeves of a
garment, inserting a few smooth pebbles from the brook, and then
banging the moist bundle on the bank!
The arrangement of clothing for the voyage is rather complicated, as it
will probably be necessary to wear warm things while crossing Europe,
and possibly even until Egypt is reached. Then an assortment of
summer flannels, sufficient to last as far as India, must be available. We
were unable to get any washing done from the date we left London, on
the 22nd of February, until we reached Rawal Pindi, on the 21st March.
Capacious canvas kit-bags are excellent things for cramming with grist
for the dobie's mill.
In arranging for luggage, it should be borne in mind that large trunks
and dress boxes are inadmissible. From Pindi to Srinagar everything
must be transported by wheeled conveyance, and, in Kashmir itself, all
luggage must be selected with a view to its adaptability to the backs of
coolies or ponies. In Srinagar one can buy native trunks--or
yakdans--which are cheap, strong, and portable; and the covered creels
or "kiltas" serve admirably for the stowage of kitchen utensils, food,
and oddments.
The following list may prove useful to any one who has not already
been "east of Suez," and who may therefore not be too proud to profit