A Canyon Voyage | Page 4

come to pass. You may now go by a luxurious Santa Fé train direct to the south rim of the greatest chasm of the series, the Grand Canyon, and stop there in a beautiful hotel surrounded by every comfort, yet when we were making the first map no railway short of Denver existed and there was but one line across the Rocky Mountains. Perhaps before many more years are gone we will see Mr. Stanton's Denver, Colorado Canyon, and Pacific Railway accomplished through the canyons, and if I then have not "crossed to Killiloo" I will surely claim a free pass over the entire length in defiance of all commerce-regulating laws.
Frederick S. Dellenbaugh. Cragsmoor, August, 1908

CONTENTS
CHAPTER I
A River Entrapped--Acquaintance not Desired--Ives Explores the Lower Reaches--Powell the Conqueror--Reason for a Second Descent--Congressional Appropriation--Preparation--The Three Boats--The Mighty Wilderness--Ready for the Start 1
CHAPTER II
Into the Wilderness--The Order of Sailing--Tobacco for the Indians Comes Handy--A Lone Fisherman and Some Trappers--Jack Catches Strange Fish--The Snow-clad Uintas in View--A Larder Full of Venison--Entrance into Flaming Gorge 9
CHAPTER III
The First Rapid--Horseshoe and Kingfisher Canyons--A Rough Entrance into Red Canyon--Capsize of the Nell--The Grave of a Bold Navigator--Discovery of a White Man's Camp--Good-bye to Frank--At the Gate of Lodore 19
CHAPTER IV
Locked in the Chasm of Lodore--Rapids with Railway Speed--A Treacherous Approach to Falls of Disaster--Numerous Loadings and Unloadings--Over the Rocks with Cargoes--Library Increased by Putnam's Magazine--Triplet Falls and Hell's Half Mile--Fire in Camp--Exit from Turmoil to Peace 34
CHAPTER V
A Remarkable Echo--Up the Canyon of the Yampa--Steward and Clem Try a Moonlight Swim--Whirlpool Canyon and Mountain Sheep--A Grand Fourth-of-July Dinner--A Rainbow-Coloured Valley--The Major Proceeds in Advance--A Split Mountain with Rapids a Plenty--Enter a Big Valley at Last 49
CHAPTER VI
A Lookout for Redskins--The River a Sluggard--A Gunshot!--Someone Comes!--The Tale of a Mysterious Light--How, How! from Douglas Boy--At the Mouth of the Uinta--A Tramp to Goblin City and a Trip down White River on a Raft--A Waggon-load of Supplies from Salt Lake by Way of Uinta Agency--The Major Goes Out to Find a Way In 61
CHAPTER VII
On to Battle--A Concert Repertory--Good-bye to Douglas Boy--The Busy, Busy Beaver--In the Embrace of the Rocks Once More--A Relic of the Cliff-Dwellers--Low Water and Hard Work--A Canyon of Desolation--Log-cabin Cliff--Rapids and Rapids and Rapids--A Horse, whose Horse?--Through Gray Canyon to the Rendezvous 72
CHAPTER VIII
Return of the Major--Some Mormon Friends--No Rations at the Elusive Dirty Devil--Captain Gunnison's Crossing--An All-night Vigil for Cap. and Clem--The Land of a Thousand Cascades--A Bend Like a Bow-knot and a Canyon Labyrinthian--Cleaving an Unknown World--Signs of the Oldest Inhabitant--Through the Canyon of Stillwater to the Jaws of the Colorado 94
CHAPTER IX
A Wonderland of Crags and Pinnacles--Poverty Rations--Fast and Furious Plunging Waters--Boulders Boom along the Bottom--Chilly Days and Shivering--A Wild Tumultuous Chasm--A Bad Passage by Twilight and a Tornado With a Picture Moonrise--Out of One Canyon into Another--At the Mouth of the Dirty Devil at Last 115
CHAPTER X
The Ca?onita Left Behind--Shinumo Ruins--Troublesome Ledges in the River--Alcoves and Amphitheatres--The Mouth of the San Juan--Starvation Days and a Lookout for Rations--El Vado de Los Padres--White Men Again--Given up for Lost--Navajo Visitors--Peaks with a Great Echo--At the Mouth of the Paria 135
CHAPTER XI
More Navajos Arrive with Old Jacob--The Lost Pack-train and a Famished Guide--From Boat to Broncho--On to Kanab--Winter Arrives--Wolf Neighbours too Intimate--Preparing for Geodetic Work--Over the Kaibab to Eight-mile Spring--A Frontier Town--Camp below Kanab--A Mormon Christmas Dance 152
CHAPTER XII
Reconnoitring and Triangulating--A Pai Ute New Year's Dance--The Major Goes to Salt Lake--Snowy Days on the Kaibab--At Pipe Spring--Gold Hunters to the Colorado--Visits to the Uinkaret County--Craters and Lava--Finding the Hurricane Ledge--An Interview with a Cougar--Back to Kanab 174
CHAPTER XIII
Off for the Unknown Country--A Lonely Grave--Climbing a Hog-back to a Green Grassy Valley--Surprising a Ute Camp--Towich-a-tick-a-boo--Following a Blind Trail--The Unknown Mountains Become Known--Down a Deep Canyon--To the Paria with the Ca?onita--John D. Lee and Lonely Dell 195
CHAPTER XIV
A Company of Seven--The Nellie Powell Abandoned--Into Marble Canyon--Vasey's Paradise--A Furious Descent to the Little Colorado--A Mighty Fall in the Dismal Granite Gorge--Caught in a Trap--Upside Down--A Deep Plunge and a Predicament--At the Mouth of the Kanab 215
CHAPTER XV
A New Departure--Farewell to the Boats--Out to the World Through Kanab Canyon--A Midnight Ride--At the Innupin Picavu--Prof. Reconnoitres the Shewits Country--Winter Quarters in Kanab--Making the Preliminary Map--Another New Year--Across a High Divide in a Snow-storm--Down the Sevier in Winter--The Last Summons 242
Index 269

ILLUSTRATIONS
FACING PAGE
The Grand Canyon Frontispiece
Looking south from the Kaibab Plateau, North Rim, near the head of Bright Angel Creek, the canyon of which is seen in the foreground. The San Francisco Mountains are in the distance. On the South Rim to the right, out of the picture, is the location of the Hotel Tovar. The width of the canyon at top in this region is about twelve miles, with a depth of near 6000 feet on the north side, and over 5000 on the south. Total length, including Marble