A Bibliographical, Antiquarian and Picturesque Tour in France and Germany, Volume Three | Page 2

that I add, that, on offering him a half florin for his trouble
in shewing me the church, he seemed to think it a point of conscience
not to receive it. His refusal was mild but firm--and he concluded by
saying, gently repelling the hand which held the money, "jamais,

jamais!" Is it thus, thought I to myself, that "they order things in"
Germany?
The sun had set, and the night was coming on apace, after we left
Bischoffsheim, and turned from the high road on the left, leading to
Rastadt to take the right, for Baden. For the advantage of a nearer cut,
we again turned to the right--and passed through a forest of about a
league in length. It was now quite dark and late: and if robbers were
abroad, this surely was the hour and the place for a successful attack
upon defenceless travellers. The postboy struck a light, to enjoy the
comfort of his pipe, which he quickly put to his mouth, and of which
the light and scent were equally cheering and pleasant. We were so
completely hemmed in by trees, that their branches brushed strongly in
our faces, as we rolled swiftly along. Every thing was enveloped in
silence and darkness: but the age of banditti, as well as of chivalry--at
least in Germany--appears to be "gone." We sallied forth from the
wood unmolested; gained again the high road; and after discerning
some lights at a distance, which our valet told us (to our great joy) were
the lights of BADEN, we ascended and descended--till, at midnight, we
entered the town. On passing a bridge, upon which I discerned a
whole-length statue of St. Francis, (with the infant Christ in his arms)
we stopped, to the right, at the principal hotel, of which I have
forgotten the name; but of which, one Monsieur or Le Baron Cotta, a
bookseller of this town, is said to be the proprietor.
The servants were yet stirring: but the hotel was so crowded that it was
impossible to receive us. We pushed on quickly to another, of which I
have also forgotten the name--and found the principal street almost
entirely filled by the carriages of visitors. Here again we were told there
was no room for us. Had it not been for our valet, we must have slept in
the open street; but he recollected a third inn, whither we went
immediately, and to our joy found just accommodation sufficient. We
saw the carriage safely put into the remise, and retired to rest. The next
morning, upon looking out of window, every thing seemed to be faëry
land. I had scarcely ever before viewed so beautiful a spot. I found the
town of Baden perfectly surrounded by six or seven lofty, fir-clad hills,
of tapering forms, and of luxuriant verdure. Thus, although compared

with such an encircling belt of hills, Baden may be said to lie in a
hollow--it is nevertheless, of itself, upon elevated ground; commanding
views of lawns, intersected by gravel walks; of temples, rustic benches,
and detached buildings of a variety of description. Every thing, in short,
bespeaks nature improved by art; and every thing announced that I was
in a place frequented by the rich, the fashionable, and the gay.
I was not long in finding out the learned and venerable
SCHWEIGHÆUSER, who had retired here, for a few weeks, for the
benefit of the waters--which flow from hot springs, and which are said
to perform wonders. Rheumatism, debility, ague, and I know not what
disorders, receive their respective and certain cures from bathing in
these tepid waters. I found the Professor in a lodging house, attached to
the second hotel which we had visited on our arrival. I sent up my
name, with a letter of introduction which I had received from his Son. I
was made most welcome. In this celebrated Greek scholar, and editor
of some of the most difficult ancient Greek authors, I beheld a figure
advanced in years--somewhere about seventy-five--tall, slim, but
upright, and firm upon his legs: with a thin, and at first view, severe
countenance--but, when animated by conversation, and accompanied
by a clear and melodious voice, agreeable, and inviting to discourse.
The Professor was accompanied by one of his daughters; strongly
resembling her brother, who had shewn me so much kindness at
Strasbourg. She told me her father was fast recovering strength; and the
old gentleman, as well as his daughter, strongly invited us to dinner; an
invitation which we were compelled to decline.
On leaving, I walked nearly all over the town, and its immediate
environs: but my first object was the CHURCH, upon the top of the hill;
from which the earliest (Protestant) congregation were about to
depart--not before I arrived in time to hear some