Himalayan Journals | Page 2

J.D. Hooker
pass--Glaciers and
snow--Summit--Plants, woolly, etc.

CHAPTER X.
Return from Wallanchoon pass--Procure a bazaar at village--Dance of
Lamas--Blackening face, Tibetan custom of--Temple and convent
--Leave for Kanglachem pass--Send part of party back to Dorjiling
--Yangma Guola--Drunken Tibetans--Guobah of Wallanchoon--Camp
at foot of Great Moraine--View from top--Geological speculations
--Height of moraines--Cross dry lake-bed--Glaciers--More
moraines--Terraces--Yangma temples--Jos, books and furniture-- Peak
of Nango--Lake--Arrive at village--Cultivation--Scenery
--Potatos--State of my provisions--Pass through village-- Gigantic
boulders--Terraces--Wild sheep--Lake-beds--Sun's power--Piles of
gravel and detritus--Glaciers and moraines-- Pabuk, elevation
of--Moonlight scene--Return to Yangma-- Temperature,
etc.--Geological causes of phenomena in valley-- Scenery of valley on
descent.

CHAPTER XI.

Ascend to Nango mountain--Moraines--Glaciers--Vegetation--
_Rhododendron Hodgsoni_--Rocks--Honey-combed surface of snow
--Perpetual snow--Top of pass--View--Elevation--Geology-- Distance
of sound--Plants--Temperature--Scenery--Cliffs of granite and hurled
boulders--Camp--Descent--Pheasants--Larch --Himalayan
pines--Distribution of Deodar, note on-- Tassichooding
temples--Kambachen village--Cultivation--Moraines in valley,
distribution of--Picturesque lake-beds, and their vegetation--Tibetan
sheep and goats--Cryptogramma crispa --Ascent to Choonjerma
pass--View of Junnoo--Rocks of its summit --Misty ocean--Nepal
peaks--Top of pass--Temperature, and observations--Gorgeous
sunset--Descent to Yalloong valley-- Loose path--Night scenes--Musk
deer.

CHAPTER XII.
Yalloong valley--Find Kanglanamo pass closed--Change route for the
southward--_Picrorhiza_--View of Kubra-- _Rhododendron
Falconeri_--Yalloong river--Junction of gneiss and clay-slate--Cross
Yalloong range--Yiew--Descent--Yew-- Vegetation--Misty
weather--Tongdam village--Khabang--Tropical vegetation--Sidingbah
mountain--View of Kinchinjunga-- Yangyading village--Slopes of hills,
and courses of rivers-- Khabili valley--Ghorkha Havildar's bad
conduct--Ascend Singalelah --Plague of ticks--Short commons--Cross
Islumbo pass--Boundary of Sikkim--Kulhait
valley--Lingcham--Reception by Kajee--Hear of Dr. Campbell's going
to meet Rajah--Views in valley--Leave for Teesta river--Tipsy
Kajee--Hospitality--Murwa beer--Temples --_Acorus Calamus_--Long
Mendong--Burning of dead-- Superstitions--Cross Great
Rungeet--Boulders, origin of-- Purchase of a
dog--Marshes--Lamas--Dismiss Ghorkhas--Bhoteea house--Murwa
beer.

CHAPTER XIII.
Raklang pass--Uses of nettles--Edible plants--Lepcha war-- Do-mani
stone--Neongong--Teesta valley--Pony, saddle, etc.-- Meet
Campbell--Vegetation and scenery--Presents--Visit of Dewan
--Characters of Rajah and Dewan--Accounts of Tibet--Lhassa--
Siling--Tricks of Dewan--Walk up Teesta--Audience of Rajah--
Lamas--Kajees--Tchebu Lama, his character and position--Effects of
interview--Heir-apparent--Dewan's house--Guitar--Weather --Fall of
river--Tibet officers--Gigantic trees--Neongong lake --Mainom, ascent
of--Vegetation--Camp on snow--Silver-firs-- View from top--Kinchin,
etc.--Geology--Vapours--Sunset effect --Elevation--Temperature,
etc.--Lamas of Neongong--Temples-- Religious festival Bamboo,
flowering--Recross pass of Raklang-- Numerous temples, villages,
etc.--Domestic animals--Descent to Great Rungeet.

CHAPTER XIV.
Tassiding, view of and from--Funereal cypress--Camp at Sunnook--
Hot vapours--Lama's house--Temples, decorations, altars, idols, general
effect--Chaits--Date of erection--Plundered by Ghorkas --Cross
Ratong--Ascend to Pemiongehi--Relation of river-beds to strike of
rocks--Slopes of ravines--Pemiongehi, view of--
Vegetation--Elevation--Temple, decorations, etc.--Former capital of
Sikkim--History of Sikkim--Nightingales--Campbell
departs--Tchonpong--_Edgeworthia_--Cross Rungbee and
Ratong--Hoar-frost on plantains--Yoksun--Walnuts--View-- Funereal
cypresses--Doobdi--Gigantic cypresses--Temples-- Snow-fall--Sikkim,
etc.--Toys.

CHAPTER XV.
Leave Yoksun for Kinchinjunga--Ascend Ratong valley--

Salt-smuggling over Ratong--Landslips--Plants--Buckeem-- Blocks of
gneiss--Mon Lepcha--View--Weather--View from Gubroo
--Kinchinjunga, tops of--Pundimcliff--Nursing--Vegetation of
Himalaya--Coup d'oeil of Jongri--Route to Yalloong--Arduous route of
salt-traders from Tibet--Kinchin, ascent of--Lichens-- Surfaces
sculptured by snow and ice--Weather at Jongri--Snow-- Shades for
eyes.

CHAPTER XVI.
Ratong river below Mon Lepcha--Ferns--Vegetation of Yoksun,
tropical--Araliaceae, fodder for cattle--Rice-paper plant --Geology of
Yoksun--Lake--Old temples--Funereal cypresses-- Gigantic
chart--Altars--Songboom--Weather--Catsuperri-- Velocity of
Ratong--Worship at Catsuperri lake--Scenery--Willow --Lamas and
ecclesiastical establishments of Sikkim--Tengling-- Changachelling
temples and monks--Portrait of myself on walls-- Block of
mica-schist--Lingcham Kajee asks for spectacles-- Hee-hill--Arrive at
Little Rungeet--At Dorjiling--Its deserted and wintry appearance.

CHAPTER XVII.
Dispatch collections--Acorns--Heat--Punkabaree--Bees--
Vegetation--Haze--Titalya--Earthquake--Proceed to Nepal
frontier--Terai, geology of--Physical features of Himalayan
valleys--Elephants, purchase of, etc.--River-beds--Mechi river --Return
to Titalya--Leave for Teesta--Climate of plains--
Jeelpigoree--Cooches--Alteration in the appearance of country by fires,
etc.--Grasses--Bamboos--Cottages--Rajah of Cooch Behar --Condition
of people--Hooli festival--Ascend Teesta--Canoes
--Cranes--Forest--Baikant-pore--Rummai--Religion--Plants at foot of
mountains--Exit of Teesta--Canoe voyage down to
Rangamally--English genera of plants--Birds--Beautiful scenery

--Botanizing on elephants--Willow--Siligoree--Cross Terai--
Geology--Iron--Lohar-ghur--Coal and sandstone beds--Mechi
fisherman--Hailstorm--Ascent to Kursiong--To Dorjiling--
Vegetation--Geology--Folded quartz-beds--Spheres of feldspar-- Lime
deposits.
LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS.
LITHOGRAPHIC VIEWS.
Fig. I. The Dhak, _i_Butea frondosa,_/i_ and _i_Cochlospermum
gossypium,_/i_ with the Kymore Hills in the background. p.53 Fig. II.
View of Kinchinjunga from Mr. Hodgson's bungalow at Dorjiling,
from a sketch by W. Tayler, Esq., B.C.S. Frontispiece. Fig. III. From
Chingtam, looking up the Tambur Valley. p.196 Fig. IV. Nango
mountain, from the summit of the great moraine in Yangma Valley,
looking eastward. p.232 Fig. V. Junnoo mountain from the Choonjerma
Pass. p.264
WOOD ENGRAVINGS.
Fig. 1. Old tamarind trees. p.17 Fig. 2. Crossing the Soane River above
Tura, with the Kymore Hills in the background. p.47 Fig. 3. Equatorial
sun-dial, Benares Observatory. p.74 Fig. 4. Equinoctial sun-dial,
Benares Observatory. p.75 Fig. 5. Azimuth circle, Benares Observatory.
p.76 Fig. 6. Monghyr on the Ganges. p.88 Fig. 7. Punkabaree, Sikkim
Terai, and Balasun River. The trees in the foreground are
_i_Araliaceae._/i_ p.105 Fig. 8. Lepcha girl and Boodhist priest. From
a sketch by Miss Colvile. p.129 Fig. 9. _i_Pinus longifolia,_/i_ in the
great Rungeet Valley. p.148 Fig. 10. Construction of a cane
suspension-bridge. p.149 Fig. 11. Lepcha boy carrying a bamboo
water-vessel. From a sketch by Miss Colvile. p.156 Fig. 12. Amulet
usually worn by Lepchas. p.161 Fig. 13. Trunk-like root of _i_Wightia
gigantea,_/i_ ascending a tree, which its stout rootlets clasp. p.164 Fig.
14. Interior of Boodhist temple at Simonbong. p.172 Fig. 15. Trumpet
made of a human thigh-bone. p.173 Fig. 16. Tibetan amulet set
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